Katsura Imperial Villa in Kyoto

Booking a Tour

On a sunny day in May 2016, I took part in a guided tour at Katsura Imperial Villa (Katsura Rikyu) in Kyoto Prefecture (in the Kinki Region). As some of you may know, reserving a tour there is not an easy task. This time I didn’t secure a booking through the Internet. Instead, I visited the office of the Imperial Household Agency in person in early May. The office is in the compound of Kyoto Imperial Palace. And there I reserved a tour scheduled to be conducted two weeks afterwards. It is worth waiting because Katsura Villa is one of the fascinating places in Kyoto. 

Katsura Hedge
The Katsura hedge.

The compound of the villa is surrounded by a unique hedgerow made of bamboo grass. It spans over 200 meters and they call it Katsura hedge. As you approach the front gate, the Katsura hedge ends and a bamboo fence called ho-gaki begins and continues to the entrance.

The bamboo fence surrounding Katsura Imperial Villa in Kyoto.
Hogaki (Right).

There is an air of simplicity and cleanliness around the entrance area, with no daunting objects like an imposing wall. It made me excited to just think about what is waiting inside.

Origin of Katsura Imperial Villa

Katsura Imperial Villa is in Katsura (the former ‘Katsura village’), Nishikyo-ku in Kyoto Prefecture. The area had been popular as a spot for moon-viewing long before the villa emerged here. And the place also has been closely related to The Tale of Genji which is a work in the Heian Period (794 – 1185). Studies suggest that the origin of Katsura Imperial Villa dates back to the early 17th century. It was when Prince Toshihito constructed the original main building, the Koshoin (古書院), there. And by the middle of the 17th century, it developed almost to the point of its current state.

Katsura Rikyu, a place of interest in Kyoto.
Sumiyoshi Pine Tree.

Near the Chumon gate there is a small pine tree whose name is Sumiyoshi Pine Tree. It is as if the pine tree prevents visitors from looking at the entire view of the garden.

Photo taken with an XF 35mm F2R WR lens.
The Chumon Gate.

Passing under the Chumon Gate

Passing under the Chumon gate, the stone path meanders at first. And then, it extends diagonally to the left toward the entrance of the Koshoin. Green moss surrounds the stone pavement. This is where the noblemen used to get off the palanquin to enter the Koshoin. Even from here, we can’t see the inside of the building, nor can we get a good look at the other buildings or the garden, as the shrubberies obstruct the view.

At Katsura Imperial Villa, the buildings from the early Edo period still remain intact. And the ‘circuit style garden’ around the beautiful pond is considered to be one of the masterpieces of Japanese gardens.

Katsura Imprial Villa in Kyoto.
Tsukimi-dai, or a moon-viewing veranda.

Moon-viewing Veranda

Tsukimi-dai, whose surface consists of thin bamboo sticks, is a moon-viewing veranda, and it protrudes from the Koshoin. They say that from here one can enjoy the entire view of the Japanese garden and the Shokin-tei tea house on the other side of the pond. But it was too bad that the interior of the Koshoin was not on the itinerary of the guided tour. We couldn’t stand upon the tsukimi-dai to appreciate the view.

Japanese garden at Katsura Imperial Villa in Kyoto.
The Shokin-tei Tea House across the pond.

There is a dock near the tsukimi-dai where noblemen used to ride in a boat. This dock is said to have been designed so that passengers can get on and off the boat safely. If you look to the right from the dock, you can see the Onrindo beyond the azalea shrubberies, as well as the bridge leading up to the Shoka-tei.

桂離宮
The Orindo as seen from the dock.

Suhama Shore

Taking part in the guided tour at Katsura Imperial Villa was a pleasant experience. Being well-organized, we moved like a legion, sandwiched between the tour guide at the top and the imperial guard in the rear. We entered into the garden from the north-northeast side and trod the path toward the Shokin-tei tea house.

Scenes at Katsura Imperial Villa.

We walked for a while through the woods, listening to the murmur of the brook. Then, suddenly a bleak landscape appeared. It is the Suhama shore which consists only of stones, no plants. A stone lantern stands at the tip of the Suhama.

Katsura Imperial Villa in Kyoto.
The Suhama shore.

The Manji-tei Rest House

As we get closer to the Shokin-tei tea house, we can see the Manji-tei rest house on a small hill on our left side. It is a resting place for the guests of the tea ceremony. And it is famous for its unique formation of the four benches found there. Although this place is not on the itinerary of the guided tour, we can see the same formation of the benches in the waiting room of the villa’s office.

Benches at Katsura Imperial Villa.
The benches in the waiting room.

They say that the benches are arranged like this so that the guests don’t need to sit face to face. But it seems the true intention of the creator is still a mystery.

Katsura Imperial Villa | 桂離宮

The final step to reach the Shokin-tei tea house is the crossing of the large stone bridge. People may have to be careful not to fall off.

Photographs: taken at Katsura Imperial Villa,
by Koji Ikuma, with a Fuji X-T1 and XF 35mmF2 R WR.

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Reference Links (New Window)

Link to Vintage Camera Lenses
Link to Tetsu Sawamura official site
Tetsu Sawamura official website (Japanese only).

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Shurijo Castle Park
Link to Kusatsu Onsen website
KUSATSU-ACCOMMODATION.JP introduces a large range of accommodations, including Japanese-style inns and large resort hotels, located in the Kusatsu Onsen hot springs area in northern Kanto.
Link to Koshu Valley .com
Insider's guide to the Koshu Vally (Katsunuma) wine region. Katsunuma Town in Yamanashi Prefecture (in the Chubu Region) is known as the birthplace of the Japanese wine industry. And the wine from this area has been attracting growing attention from wine drinkers overseas.
Link to Shimanto City Tourism Association
Shimanto City Tourism Association. Flowing through the western part of Southern Shikoku, the Shimanto River is called 'the last clear river in Japan'. And some of the 'chinka-bashi bridges' across the river are now popular tourist attractions in Shimanto City.
Link to Fukuyama Hiroshima Tourism Guide
FUKUYAMA HIROSHIMA Tourism Guide includes the information about Tomonoura, a small fishing town that flourished in the Edo Period as an important transportation hub.
Link to Shiretoko Shari-cho Tourism Association
Shiretoko Shari-cho Tourist Association. The Shiretoko Peninsula in eastern Hokkaido extends a long distance into the Sea of Okhotsuk. Registered as UNESCO's World Natural Heritage Site in 2005, this area still has a considerable amount of pristine environment.
Shirakami Sanchi Visitor Center. Straddling both Aomori and Akita Prefectures in the Tohoku Region, Shirakami Sanchi is home to the large-scale primitive beech forest. In 1993, this mountainous area was registered as one of Japan's very first UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Link to Itsukushima Shurine website
Itsukushima Shrine official website. A UNESCO World Heritage site, Itsukushima Shrine attracts a lot of tourists and religious worshippers every year. The shrine is located on Miyajima Island which is known as one of the three most scenic places in Japan.
Link to Wakayama Prefecture World Heritage Center
Wakayama Prefecture World Heritage Center. Many religious structures and old paths in the Kii Mountains in southern Kinki became UNESCO's World Heritage sites in 2004.
Link to Kamikochi website
Kamikochi official website.
Link to Ise Jingu website
ISE JINGU official website. Located in the Kinki Region, Ise Jingu is one of the most important religious establishments in Japan. This Shinto shrine has been revered by successive emperors throughout the history, and receives an annual visit from the prime minister of Japan.
Hiraizumi Tourism Association.
Link to Amanohashidate Tourism Association
Amanohashidate Tourism Association. Located in northern Kinki, Amano-no-hashidate has been known as one of the three most scenic spots of Japan since long time ago.
Link to Historical Village of Hokkaido website
Historical Village of Hokkaido is a large open-air museum located in Sapporo, Hokkaido. In the compound, there are more than 50 buildings of historical importance, which were relocated and restored.

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