Tokawa, a Small Port Town in Chiba

Choshi Electric Railway Line

The Choshi Electric Railway (Choshi Dentetsu) is a small local railway line which runs through Choshi City, Chiba Prefecture in the Kanto Region. It has been operating for nearly one hundred years. People sometimes call it the ‘backbone of Choshi tourism’. It offers you the chance to visit the towns along its line where interesting activities await you, including strolling through the small, rural port town of Tokawa, for example.

The Choshi Electric Railway Line | 銚子電鉄
Left: A Choshi Dentetsu train Right: A landscape viewed from a Choshi Dentetsu train.

Town of Tokawa

Tokawa is the last stop along the CER, and it takes about 20 minutes from Choshi, the starting point. The wooden building of Tokawa Station (See the top image on this page) is an original structure constructed in 1923, although it has undergone several repairs. The building has such an old, quaint air that it could be an interesting photo spot for some people, as could the old CER passenger cars exhibited beside it. If you walk from the station to the south, descending a gentle slope, this quiet fishing town is before your eyes.

Tokawa port town in Choshi City, Japan
Tokawa fishing town.

History of Tokawa Town

The town of Tokawa was created in 1661 under the leadership of a man named Sakiyama Jiroemon. He constructed the Tokawa harbor at the same time. Jiroemon came up to the Choshi area in 1656 from his native Kii Province at the time, which largely overlaps today’s Wakayama Prefecture. After making his mark by introducing a new sardine-fishing method called makaseami, which had been alien to local villagers at that time, he moved to the Tokawa area and started constructing the port and town there.

Tokawa harbor
A scene at Tokawa Harbor.

When the construction was finished in 1661, the town was laid out in an orderly grid pattern. And the port was so formidable that it would continue to be used in its original form until the mid-20th century. Then, he immediately summoned people from Kii Province. And, over time, the town developed into a community with over one thousand households. Walking down the streets of Tokawa today, you will notice that the grid pattern still remains.

Tokawa town in the old days
Scenes at the Tokawa fishing village in the early 20th century (Photos: Courtesy of the Tokawa ‘Mini’ Folk Museum).

Tokawa ‘Mini’ Folk Museum

If you visit the Tokawa ‘Mini’ Folk Museum located near Tokawa Station, you can learn a lot more about the past and present of Tokawa Town. It exhibits valuable items, including age-old fishing tools, historical residential records and photographs, and shells and fossils collected at the nearby coast and cliffs. The last time I visited there, the curator enthusiastically told me about the founding and history of Tokawa Town.

Tokawa 'Mini' Folk Museum | 外川ミニ郷土資料館
Exhibits at the Tokawa ‘Mini’ Folk Museum (Photos: Courtesy of the museum).

I asked her if, in the 17th century, Jiroemon had really constructed the town from scratch.
“Yes, this land used to be unused. It was owned by a farmer living in a nearby village. His descendants are still living there, growing cabbage. Anyway, he was not able to do farming here. With large bedrocks in the earth, the land was not suitable for farming. But on the other hand, there was plenty of water. That is what it was like when Jiroemon arrived.

Scenery near Tokawa Port in Chiba Prefecture
A scene near Tokawa Harbor.

“Did Jiroemon and his people purchase the land from the farmer, or just rent it?”
“It was basically on loan, with a few exceptions, like one of my own ancestors, who actually bought some of the land. Anyway, Jiroemon knew they could get a lot of sardines from the ocean. So, after catching sardines, they would boil them, take out some oil and scum, and would make a kind of fertilizer out of them. The farmer received it from them as a land fee and used it for his farming. So most of our ancestors didn’t pay any rental fee to the farmer.”

A scene near Tokawa Harbor.

Nagasakibana Area

After spending some time around the Tokawa harbor, you can take a 20-minute or so walk along the coast, to the southeast. Then the walk takes you to Nagasakibana, which is a small headland stretching out into the Pacific Ocean (there are other Nagasakibana in other prefectures, but this one is in Chiba Prefecture). It is a rather desolate area, where a 21-meter chimney-like tower (technically, this is not a lighthouse) stands forlornly among rocks.

Nagasakibana Headland.

You seldom see sightseers around here. At the tip of the headland, you are surrounded by the rolling sea on three sides and may be overcome by a feeling that you might be the only person left on a deserted island. This place is popular among anglers as a fine rock-fishing spot.

Nagasakibana Headland | 銚子、長崎鼻の海岸)
Nagasakibana Headland.

Stepping into the inland, exploring the small town of Nagasakibana could also be an interesting experience. Compared with the town of Tokawa, where you can occasionally find a few tourists, Nagasakibana Town is more quiet. On the surface, this town looks like an ordinary small town you can find anywhere in Japan, or maybe it really is.

A scene in the Nagasakibana Town, Choshi.
Landscape near Nagasakibana Headland.

Both Tokawa and Nagasakibana could be interesting locations to visit. They might not be overly exciting as sightseeing spots. But they could make you feel relaxed in the quiet atmosphere, away from the hustle and bustle of large cities.

Landscape near Nagasakibana Headland.

Getting There (English Map)

To go to Tokawa Town, take the Sobu Line from Tokyo Station toward the east. And you will reach the JR Choshi Station in about two hours. Then, buy a ticket of the Choshi Electric Railway bound for Tokawa.

Other Photos

Old Choshi Dentetsu train at Tokawa Sation
Old CER passenger car at Tokawa Station
Local stations along the Choshi Electric Railway
Scenes at local stations along the Choshi Electric Railway line.
Tokawa port town in Choshi, Japan
A street of Tokawa Town.
Inubosaki Lighthouse as seen from Nagasakibana shore in Chiba.
Inubosali Lighthouse as seen from the Nagasakibana coast.

Places Nearby

If you want to visit other places in Choshi City, there are some interesting places. Cape Inubo, or Inubo-saki, must be the highlight of the CER trip. The cape is a scenic spot by the beautiful coast and cliffs. It is also home to the Inubosaki Lighthouse, which is designated as one of the ‘Best 100 Lighthouses in the World’. There are an observation deck and an exhibition room inside the lighthouse.

Byobugaura is a range of coastal cliffs at the height of 20 to 60m, stretching about 10km. People sometimes call it the ‘Dover of the East’ as it looks like the White Cliffs of Dover in England. This place has been designated as a National Scenic Spot as well as a Natural Monument since 2016. Riding the long-standing Choshi Electric Railway Line is, in itself, an interesting experience. It stops at every station, and you can enjoy rural, rustic scenery from the window.

making nure-senbei at Inubosaki Station in Chiba.
Baking nure-senbei, a local specialty, at Inubo Station.
Scenery from the Inubosaki Lighthous | 犬吠埼灯台からの眺め
A view from the Inubosaki Lighthouse.
A CER train arriving at Inubo Station.
Inside the CER passenger car.

Conclusion

If you want to enjoy these places fully, I recommend you to get a tour guide who is familiar with these areas. Otherwise, it might be a little difficult for you to find some interesting signs from the old days buried under the guise of new modern-style housings. For a guided tour along the Choshi Electric Railway Line or other places in Choshi City, please send an e-mail from the Rates/Contact page of this site.

Photographs: taken at the Tokawa fishing village, the Nagasakibana coast,
and other places along the Choshi Electric Railway Line,
by Koji Ikuma, with a Fujifilm X-T1 and a Xenon 25mm f1.4 lens.


Outbound Links (New Window)

Inubousaki Kankou Hotel.
Choshi Dentetsu
Choshi Dentetsu Railway (Japanese only).

Jingu StadiumTokyo Big6 Baseball League

yokosawairi satoyama conservation zoneYokosawairi Zone in Suburban Tokyo

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Reference Links (New Window)

Link to Vintage Camera Lenses
Link to Tetsu Sawamura official site
Tetsu Sawamura official website (Japanese only).

Outbound Links (New Window)

Shurijo Castle Park
Link to Kusatsu Onsen website
KUSATSU-ACCOMMODATION.JP introduces a large range of accommodations, including Japanese-style inns and large resort hotels, located in the Kusatsu Onsen hot springs area in northern Kanto.
Link to Koshu Valley .com
Insider's guide to the Koshu Vally (Katsunuma) wine region. Katsunuma Town in Yamanashi Prefecture (in the Chubu Region) is known as the birthplace of the Japanese wine industry. And the wine from this area has been attracting growing attention from wine drinkers overseas.
Link to Shimanto City Tourism Association
Shimanto City Tourism Association. Flowing through the western part of Southern Shikoku, the Shimanto River is called 'the last clear river in Japan'. And some of the 'chinka-bashi bridges' across the river are now popular tourist attractions in Shimanto City.
Link to Fukuyama Hiroshima Tourism Guide
FUKUYAMA HIROSHIMA Tourism Guide includes the information about Tomonoura, a small fishing town that flourished in the Edo Period as an important transportation hub.
Link to Shiretoko Shari-cho Tourism Association
Shiretoko Shari-cho Tourist Association. The Shiretoko Peninsula in eastern Hokkaido extends a long distance into the Sea of Okhotsuk. Registered as UNESCO's World Natural Heritage Site in 2005, this area still has a considerable amount of pristine environment.
Shirakami Sanchi Visitor Center. Straddling both Aomori and Akita Prefectures in the Tohoku Region, Shirakami Sanchi is home to the large-scale primitive beech forest. In 1993, this mountainous area was registered as one of Japan's very first UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Link to Itsukushima Shurine website
Itsukushima Shrine official website. A UNESCO World Heritage site, Itsukushima Shrine attracts a lot of tourists and religious worshippers every year. The shrine is located on Miyajima Island which is known as one of the three most scenic places in Japan.
Link to Wakayama Prefecture World Heritage Center
Wakayama Prefecture World Heritage Center. Many religious structures and old paths in the Kii Mountains in southern Kinki became UNESCO's World Heritage sites in 2004.
Link to Kamikochi website
Kamikochi official website.
Link to Ise Jingu website
ISE JINGU official website. Located in the Kinki Region, Ise Jingu is one of the most important religious establishments in Japan. This Shinto shrine has been revered by successive emperors throughout the history, and receives an annual visit from the prime minister of Japan.
Hiraizumi Tourism Association.
Link to Amanohashidate Tourism Association
Amanohashidate Tourism Association. Located in northern Kinki, Amano-no-hashidate has been known as one of the three most scenic spots of Japan since long time ago.
Link to Historical Village of Hokkaido website
Historical Village of Hokkaido is a large open-air museum located in Sapporo, Hokkaido. In the compound, there are more than 50 buildings of historical importance, which were relocated and restored.

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