Kunozan Toshogu, Tokugawa’s Mausoleum in Shizuoka

Overview

Here I would like to talk a little about Kunozan Toshogu Shrine. (Toshogu is sometimes spelled Tosho-gu.) This is a Tokugawa’s mausoleum and perhaps one of the most historically important shrines in Shizuoka Prefecture, which is in central Japan (the Chubu Region). The shrine is located at the top of Mt. Kuno. If you are looking for a place to go in the middle of the Japanese archipelago (I mean, between Osaka and Tokyo), this place would be one of my recommendations.

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, a Tokugawa's burial place
Decoration on the Main Hall of Kunozan Toshogu Shrine (Photo taken with a Summar 5cm f2 lens).

This Shinto shrine was built in 1617, and there are thirteen structures in total in the compound. All of them are the original buildings from the early 17th century and all of them are listed as Important Cultural Properties of the nation. And the main building (sanctuary) and its surrounding area became a National Treasure in 2010. They built this shrine to enshrine the soul of Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu and to worship him as a deity.

久能山東照宮
The Romon Gate of Kunozan Toshogu.

Tablet on the Romon Gate

At the entrance of the shrine precinct stands a big two-storied gate called Romon. It was constructed around 1640 by the third Shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, who was the grandson of Ieyasu. There is a large tablet on the gate. The kanji characters on it were autographed by non other than the emperor of Japan at that time.

Tosho Daigongen tablet | 東証大権現の扁額
The tablet on the Romon gate.

The characters can be read Tosho Daigongen (東照大権現), which roughly means ‘ the Illuminator of the East’, which is the posthumous name of Ieyasu as a deity. Actually, ‘Toshogu shrine’ means ‘the shrine where Tokugawa Ieyasu is enshrined’. Among many Toshogu shrines in Japan, this one is the first Toshogu and the most important one along with Nikko Toshogu in Tochigi Prefecture.

Tokugawa Ieyasu

Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu is one of the most famous historical figures in Japan. He is the first Shogun of the Edo feudal government. Edo is present-day Tokyo, and Shogun was a title the emperor of Japan gave to a feudal lord.

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine
A view from the Karamon gate.

When Ieyasu was born in 1542, Japan was in turmoil. The nation was divided into many small countries and they always fought with each other. At first Ieyasu was just one of those feudal lords and he fought many battles himself. But finally, he won a final, decisive battle in 1600 (the Battle of Sekigahara), unified Japan and opened a feudal government in Edo. And this Edo government lasted for more than 260 years. It was a peaceful period (roughly speaking). So he united Japan and brought peace to the country. That is why many people still respect him.

Family crests of Tokugawa
The roof of the tamagaki fence.

Ieyasu spent his last days in Shizuoka, until he passed away in 1616 at the age of 75. And after his passing, people immediately carried his body to Mt. Kuno and buried it there according to his will. One year later, Ieyasu’s son, the second shogun of the Edo Shogunate, built the shrine there.

The stone lanterns in Kunozan Toshogu Shrine.
Stone lanterns, the gifts from daimyo around the country.

In Shinto tradition, the soul of the person who contributed greatly to the country turns into kami (a Shinto deity), and becomes an object of worship. And when we visit the shrine and worship the person, we receive blessings of magical power by that person.

Carvings on the Romon Gate

When you get to the towering Romon Gate, please pay attention to the wooden carvings above before walking through the gate. There are the carvings which depict a lion and peony flowers. The lion is considered to be the king of the animals and peony (tree peony) the king of flowers. Considering Ieyasu’s position, the lion is an appropriate symbol.

Romon Gate at Kunozan Toshogu Shrine | 久能山東照宮楼門
The Romon gate.

But the most interesting carvings are the ones which depict an imaginary animal called baku (pronounced as ‘bar-koo’). Baku has the nose of an elephant and the belly of a snake. And its main food is all the metals like iron and bronze. And that is why people consider it to be a symbol of peace. I mean, in the war time, all those metals are usually gathered and turned into the weapons. Then baku can’t live because of the shortage of their food. But looking at the carving there, it seems he is healthy and well-fed, which implies the world is at peace now. People think the carvings of baku represent the most important message from Ieyasu: his wish for peace.

Romon Gate of Kunozan Toshogu Shrine (Summar 5cmF2)
The Romon gate.

Guardian Statues

There are two statues of guardians inside the gate structure. They are protecting the shrine. If you look closely at their faces, you will find the mouth of the left one (the younger one) is wide open, and the mouth of the right one (the elderly one) is tightly closed. They say that this represents the beginning and the end of all things in this world. At the back of the gate, two sculptured guardian animals are also protecting the shrine.

Sacred Stable

After you walk through the Romon Gate, you will see a small structure called the Sacred Stable on the left. You can see a wooden carved horse inside. According to the shrine, Hidari Jingoro, a master sculptor in the early 17th century, carved the horse.

The Sacred Stable at Kunozan Toshogu (Fujifilm X-T1 and a Summar 5cm f2 lens)
The “Sacred Stable.”

They say that, for a while after Ieyasu’s death, a real horse looking like the carving was living here. It was a horse Ieyasu loved so much. The story is told that the horse came out of the stable every night to sleep beside its master’s grave (which was in the same compound). And every morning the horse returned to the stable to eat feed. But one morning a priest noticed the horse had not returned yet. So he went to the grave to look for the horse, which was already dead there as if still sleeping. And the master sculptor, listening to the story, carved the horse and dedicated it to Kunozan Toshogu.

the carved white horse inside the Sacred Stable

There is another side-story about this horse. There was a man who was in charge of looking after the horse. He was a retainer of Ieyasu. Ieyasu died on April 17, 1616, and soon afterwards he committed suicide himself in seppuku style. We call it Junshi: follow one’s master to his grave. This form of suicide was sometimes seen under the feudal system in Japan.

The Drum Tower at Kunozan Toshogu in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
The ‘Drum Tower‘.

Recoating of Lacquer

By the way, many structures in the shrine, including the Sacred Stable, are colored vermilion. This vermilion color comes from lacquer painting. People consider vermilion color to be auspicious. And lacquer is resistant to heat and moisture, as well as being anticorrosive and insect proof. However, it is vulnerable to the ultraviolet radiation, and extreme dryness causes cracks on the surface. That is why once in 50 years, the total recoating of lacquer for all the buildings is needed. The last one was done in 2006.

Main Hall

If you stand in front of the main building (sanctuary), which is a National Treasure structure in the shrine, you may think the shape of the building is a little odd. It is a sort of a complex consisting of the three different sections. Haiden, or the worship hall, is the place where people throw a coin and make their wishes. Honden, or the Main Hall, is a place where a spirit of Ieyasu resides as kami. And the small section called Ishi-no-ma, or the Stone Hall, connects these two structures.

The main building of Kunozan Toshogu Shrine (a Summar 5cm f2 lens)
The Main Hall structure.

This architectural style is very specific to a Toshogu shrine and they call it Gongen Zukuri structure. The floors of these halls are usually at a different level. The Stone Hall is, in a way, an anteroom to the sanctuary. Every morning a Shinto priest comes to the Stone Hall and makes an offering to kami and prays.

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine near Shimizu Port, Japan (静岡県の国宝、久能山東照宮)
The Main Hall structure.

I once asked one of the Shinto priests serving here if some one enters into the main sanctuary area located at the center of the Honden from time to time. He said to me, “people sometimes enter into the periphery of the Honden, but generally no one enters into the centeral area except for the very special occasions. No one dares to because it is where kami reside.”

Colorful Decorations

After Lord Ieyasu died in 1616, his successor, Hidetada the second Shogun, immediately ordered the construction of the shrine. A man called Nakai, a master carpenter at that time, supervised the construction. And it took Nakai and other master craftsmen one year and seven months to complete the sanctuary building. Very fast construction for this type of structure.

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine in Shizuoka, Japan (久能山東照宮)
Paintings on the Main Hall.

The highlights of this National Treasure area include extravagant wood carvings, gold leafs and painted decorations, (needless to say the prowess of the construction work). For paintings, five different colors are used. They are natural mineral pigments and black lacquer. They are all high-quality domestic produces.

one of the carvings at Kunozan Toshogu (久能山東照宮の彫刻)
One of the carvings on the Main Hall.

The subject matters carved or painted here were not chosen randomly but each has its own meanings. People think these artifacts reflect secret messages from Ieyasu. So if you visit the shrine, I hope you will pay attention to them and try to look for hidden messages from Ieyasu.

Tomb of Lord Ieyasu

If you take the stone steps from the Main Hall for a few minutes, you will reach the tomb of Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu. For a couple of decades after his death, there was a small wooden shrine with a thatched roof standing there instead of the stone. In 1640, by order of the third Shogun, Iemitsu, the giant stones were brought there by ship from Izu Peninsula and processed there.

A shogun's tomb (久能山東照宮の家康の墓所)
The tomb of Lord Ieyasu.

Several days before his death, realizing that his days were numbered, he uttered his final words. He said that after his death, his body should be buried in Mount Kuno, looking toward the west, the burial should be completed before the dawn, his funeral should be held in Zojoji Temple in Edo and after a year, a small shrine should be built in Nikko so that people can come to worship him.

The stone lanterns at Kunozan Toshogu (Fuji X-T1 & Summar 5cmF2)

So this tomb stands looking toward the west according to his will. The reason why he said “west” is unclear, but people speculates that his birthplace, Okazaki Castle, lay in the west, and also there was a city of Kyoto in the same direction.

Last Days of Ieyasu

Let me say a few things about the death of Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu. On a day in January 1616, three months before his death, he went for hunting with his favorite falcon. Falconry was a popular amusement among feudal lords at that time.

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, one of the popular spots among travelers in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan (久能山東照宮の舞殿)
The “Sacred Dance Hall,” with no dances ever performed.

And it was when he ate tempura of a fish called sea bream. People in Japan has believed that a sea bream is a king of fish, and they have eaten the fish mainly at festive occasions, like wedding ceremonies or New Year’s Day. Ieyasu ate the tempura of this fish and reportedly since then his health had declined.

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine (Fuji X-T1 & Summar 5cmF2)

And three month later on April 17, 1616, he passed away at the age of 75. Therefore, people have long believed that the sea bream was the cause of his death. But the recent scientific studies suggest that the cause of his death might have not been the tempura but the stomach cancer. However, the truth is still a mystery.

Karamon Gate

In the center of the shrine precinct stands a bronze torii gate which was erected in the late Edo Period. It is a third incarnation. The original one was made of wood, the second, of stone. And then, after you walk through it, a short walk takes you to the steep stone steps leading up to the Karamon Gate (Chinese-style Gate). It is the formal entrance to the sanctuary area which has a tamagaki fence (玉垣).

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, where Ieyasu is enshrined. (久能山東照宮)
The bronze torii gate, with the Karamon seen in the distance.

In the Edo Period, it seems that ordinary people were not able to proceed beyond this gate. They say that only the high-ranking samurai had a right to pass under it to worship at the main building.

Karamon Gate at Kunozan Toshogu, one of the destinations of Japan guided tours (久能山東照宮の唐門)
The Karamon Gate.

Even today, we usually can’t pass under the Karamon Gate, except for a special occasion like a wedding ceremony or purification ceremony among others. However, fortunately nowadays, we can enter into the sanctuary area through the east entrance, bypassing the Karamon Gate and can appreciate a number of wonderful artifacts inside the fence.

One of the carvings at Kunozan Toshogu (a Summar 5cm f2 lens)
One of the carvings on the Karamon Gate.

Artifacts on the Karamon Gate

The Karamon Gate structure is a collection of intricate carvings and gorgeous decorations. Although we can observe the front side of the gate only from a distance of several meters, we can see the artifacts on the back side from close up. There are various carvings here, for example, a lion’s head among some peonies, and birds perching in black pines.

One of the carvings at Kunozan Toshogu (久能山東照宮唐門の彫り物)
Carvings on the Karamon door.

A high-level engraving technique called “open work” was used in these carvings. In addition, when the door of the gate is opened, the view from the back of the gate is probably one of the most photogenic of the compound, with the Pacific Ocean seen at a distance over the roof of the Romon Gate.

The Torii Gate at Kunozan Toshogu (Fujifilm X-T1)
The view from the Karamon gate.

Legend of a Carp

In China, there is a legend of a carp swimming against a strong current to reach a gate called Ryumon in order to become a dragon. This tale generally implies that people need to overcome various hardships to attain success. And in Japan today, we often use a term Tou-ryumon (登竜門, literally, climbing up to Ryumon) to represent ‘the gateway to success’. They say that the Karamon was designed with this legend in mind, the steep steps representing a strong current.


How to Get There (English Map)

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine is about 8.5 km (5.3 miles) to the southwest of Shimizu Port and about 13 km (8 miles) to the east of JR Shizuoka Station. Since there is no train stations near the shrine, using a rental car or a taxi might be the best way to get there. The shrine is at the top of Mount Kuno, and there are two ways to reach there: One is to park your car at the foot of the mountain and start climbing on foot (in this case, you need to climb up 1159 stone steps to reach the top); the other is to park your car at the top of the Nihondaira hill, the adjacent mountain, and ride a cable car which takes you to the shrine in five minute.

Other Photos

Overlooking Suruga Bay (the Pacific Ocean) (久能山からの見晴らし)
Overlooking Suruga Bay (the Pacific Ocean) from the lookout point of Kunozan Toshogu.
Kunozan Toshogu Museum (久能山東照宮博物館)
The Kunozan Toshogu Museum in the compound of the shrine.
A view of Mount Kuno and the Pacific (日本平から久能山を望む)
Looking at Mount Kuno and Suruga Bay from the top of the adjacent Nihondaira hill.

Places Nearby

Probably the most popular spot near Kunozan Toshogu is Miho Pine Grove (or Miho no Matsubara), which has been popular for its beautiful scenery with Mount Fuji and a beach. In 2013, this pine grove became a UNESCO World Heritage Site as one of the “component parts” of Mt. Fuji. And, at the top of the Nihondaira hill stands the Nihondaira Yume Terrace. The view of Mt. Fuji and Shimizu Port seen from its observation deck is superb. If you are curious about trying Japanese traditional dishes like sushi or sashimi, I recommend you to go to the Shimizu Port area because several restaurants would offer you a tasty fish dish there.

Conclusion

If you are thinking about a trip to Japan on a cruise ship and are looking for a local English-speaking tour guide around Shizuoka and Shimizu area, please send an e-mail through the Rates/Contact page of this site.

Photographs: taken at Kunozan Toshogu Shrine,
by Koji Ikuma, with Fujifilm X-T1
equipped with a Summar 5cm f2 lens.

Miho Beach in the rainMiho no Matsubara with Mount Fuji Views

Jingu StadiumTokyo Big6 Baseball League

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